Autumn fabrics – which materials to choose and what to make from them

Autumn is the season that draws us toward warmer, more muted fabrics – ones that not only guard against the cold but also bring a cozy, autumnal mood to our wardrobes. As temperatures drop, materials with a denser weave, heavier weight, and a warm finish take center stage. Corduroy, bouclé, Chanel style fabrics, and coating knits are classics that return to favor every year. In this article we’ll look at which fabrics work best for autumn and what to check before you buy. You’ll also see what’s worth sewing from them – from sweatshirts to dresses and coats – so you stay comfortable and stylish all season.

Autumn fabrics at a glance:

• Bouclé, Chanel style fabric, corduroy knit, French Terry, alpaca-style coating and Ponte Roma; you will find all of them at Fashion Tree.
• Weight is the first hint rather than a rule. Base-layer fabrics usually sit around 270–310 GSM and coating fabrics at 350 GSM and up, but weave, composition and finish matter just as much.
• Parameters always from the product page – the shop lists composition, weight and bolt width for every fabric.
• Work out metres from the bolt width – a 180 cm bolt means fewer metres than a 150 cm one for the same garment.

The ideal fabrics for autumn

Chillier mornings are, for many of us, a signal that it’s time to reach for warmer clothing and start thinking about autumn sewing projects. An autumn fabric needs to be, above all, stable. It keeps you warm at seven in the morning without leaving you sweating by three in the afternoon. It’s usually a medium-weight fabric with a weave that traps air.

What makes a fabric right for chilly mornings?

A good autumn fabric can be worn in layers. Fabrics in the 270–380 GSM range usually retain heat without stiffening your silhouette the way winter coating fabrics do. Weight alone does not settle it, though. At the same weight, a denser weave and a brushed finish trap more warmth than a smooth surface.

• Good thermal insulation – the primary function of an autumn fabric is to retain heat. A dense weave and a heavier fabric protect against cold more effectively than light, breezy summer materials. That is why coating fabrics and bouclé come into their own once the mornings get cold.
• Breathability – while the fabric needs to keep you warm, it shouldn’t “suffocate” the body at the same time. Natural fibers, cotton above all, allow the skin to breathe, preventing discomfort as temperatures shift throughout the day.
• Wind resistance – morning chill is often accompanied by gusty wind. Denser fabrics, like corduroy or bouclé, form a natural barrier and protect better against air penetration than loosely woven materials.
• Elasticity and comfort – a knit with added elastane moves with you instead of holding you back. Look for it in the blend of fabrics like French Terry or Ponte Roma, where it is often part of the composition.

Which fabrics and knits work best in autumn?

This season our range leans towards knits. Knitted fabrics drape softly, and their edges fray far less when cut than woven fabrics do.

Bouclé, the looped-yarn fabric

Under your fingers, bouclé – the looped-yarn fabric – feels like rows of tiny knots. To put numbers on it, the product page for this fabric lists 370 GSM and a width of 150 cm. The composition is 85% polyester, 10% viscose and 5% wool, with an OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certificate. Because that texture distracts the eye, bouclé also forgives seams that are less than perfect. However, the same loops mean that pilling depends largely on what the fabric rubs against in wear.

Chanel style fabric

A jacket, a straight skirt and a waistcoat are what this fabric does best. The pronounced texture and structural weave hold their form, so the finished piece keeps the line of the pattern. In the Chanel style fabrics category the product page lists 330 GSM, a width of 150 cm, 100% polyester and an OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certificate.

Corduroy knit

440 GSM makes this the heaviest of the six fabrics described here. The product page for this ribbed knit lists 98% polyester and 2% elastane at a width of 160 cm. Corduroy knit works for coats, jackets, dresses and trousers, but at this weight skip small pleats – they will not lie flat.

French Terry sweatshirt fabric

95% cotton and 5% elastane – that composition explains why French Terry lives in every wardrobe. The product page for this French Terry lists 270 GSM and a 180 cm width, which means less waste when cutting. French Terry goes into sweatshirts, dresses and trousers; it is a year-round knit, working in autumn as a layer under a jacket.

Alpaca-style coating fabrics

Alpaca as a fibre is natural animal hair. In this category the name describes the character and look of the material, not its composition. The product pages list 100% polyester, a weight of 350–380 GSM and a width of 150 cm. The brushed surface feels soft and warm. Materials from this category – alpaca-style fabrics – should be aired after longer wear. With a brushed pile keep one cutting direction, or two pieces will read as different shades.

Ponte Roma for everyday

Ponte Roma can hold its shape even after a full day at a desk, thanks to its springy structure. The Ponte de Luxe knit is 63% viscose, 32% nylon and 5% elastane, 310 GSM, 158 cm wide, with an OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certificate. As an autumn knit it works as a layering piece under a jacket, and beyond that goes into skirts, dresses and smart trousers. Ponte Roma is beginner-friendly: its edges barely fray when cut.

Natural fibres versus synthetic blends in autumn weather

It helps to separate three groups. Natural fibres are cotton and wool. Viscose, Tencel, Modal and Lyocell are regenerated cellulose fibres – made chemically from wood pulp, so they are neither natural nor fully synthetic. Synthetics are polyester, nylon and elastane. Cotton and viscose share an advantage that is hard to imitate: they usually breathe well and move moisture away. A purely natural composition can be temperamental, though – it creases and loses its shape sooner.

When a synthetic blend works in your favour

When a garment has to hold its shape all day. 2% elastane in corduroy knit is usually enough for trousers to spring back after sitting. In French Terry, 5% elastane gives a sweatshirt more ease across the shoulders.

How to choose fabrics so you are not cold in the morning or too warm by the afternoon

An autumn wardrobe works best when you plan it in layers: a thin base layer plus a removable outer one.

For the base, French Terry at 270 GSM in breathable cotton works well, as does Ponte Roma at 310 GSM, which adds no bulk under a jacket. For the outer layer people usually reach for clearly heavier fabrics, around 350 GSM and up.

What to make from autumn fabrics?

Six autumn materials and their parameters from the product pages:

Fabric	Composition	Weight	What to make
Bouclé	85% polyester, 10% viscose, 5% wool	370 GSM	coats, jackets
Tweed	100% polyester	330 GSM	jackets, dresses, skirts
Corduroy knit	98% polyester, 2% elastane	440 GSM	coats, jackets, dresses, trousers
French Terry	95% cotton, 5% elastane	270 GSM	sweatshirts, dresses, trousers
Alpaca	100% polyester	350–380 GSM	coats, outerwear
Ponte Roma	63% viscose, 32% nylon, 5% elastane	310 GSM	dresses, skirts, trousers

Coats and jackets

A coat forgives the least when you sew it. Coat fabric needs a reserve of weight. In the coating knits from this category, that usually means 350 GSM and up. A jacket is more forgiving. Chanel style fabric at 330 GSM gives structure at a lower weight. Order coat fabrics with some extra; as a rough guide 2.5–3.5 m from a 150 cm bolt, depending on size and cut.

A dress for cooler days

A dress for cooler days needs a material that drapes softly and adds no bulk underneath. Ponte Roma at 310 GSM does this best and allows a fitted cut without lining. Dress fabrics of this kind look best in simple midi shapes.

Jumpers, sweatshirts and everyday pieces

Which fabric suits a sweatshirt best is decided by how you wear it. French Terry is 270 GSM and 180 cm wide, which leaves less waste when cutting; as a rough guide a hooded sweatshirt takes 1.2–1.6 m. Pick sweater fabrics by stretch as well: with more elastane, cuffs and ribbing recover their shape better. Not sure what to sew first? A plain French Terry sweatshirt.

Choosing fabric for your autumn project

Which autumn fabric suits you comes down to the actual pattern you are working with. Heavier coating materials go into outerwear, mid-weight knits into dresses and trousers, and French Terry into everything meant to be comfortable. Take your time with the autumn materials, keep the pattern to hand and pick one project to start with!

Frequently asked questions about autumn fabrics

Which fabric is the warmest for autumn?

Of the materials covered here, corduroy knit has the highest weight at 440 GSM. Warmth also depends on the finish, though: at a similar weight a brushed surface traps more air than a smooth one.

What fabric weight works for an autumn coat?

Coating knits in this category usually run 350–380 GSM, which is enough for a transitional coat. A lighter fabric with a dense weave can hold a line too, and if you are adding a lining, count its weight into the total.

How many metres of fabric do you need for a sweatshirt?

Roughly 1.5–2 m from a 150 cm bolt, or about 1.2–1.6 m when the bolt is 180 cm wide, as French Terry is. The figure depends on your size, sleeve length and whether the sweatshirt has a hood.

Which fabric is the easiest one for a beginner?

For a first project Ponte Roma is the easiest, with French Terry close behind. Ponte Roma holds its shape and feeds well under the presser foot, while French Terry tolerates an uneven stitch – with either, start with a simple design without fastenings.